Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Salamut Dateng Malaysia!

Day 57 – The endless diversity of our world never ceases to amaze me. In our crossing of the Bay of Bengal from Chennai, India, to Georgetown, Malaysia, it is as though we crossed an invisible prosperity line. Standing in stark contrast a stone’s throw across the bay from dirty, noisy, bustling India is clean, manicured, tranquil Malaysia. Malaysia’s booming economy is certainly reflected in the clean streets and large buildings that boarder the docks. The country just finished celebrating its 50th year as a nation after gaining independence from Britain in 1957.

I knew that the British empire was vast (The sun never sets on the British empire right?) but now that we’ve visited four consecutive countries that are her former possessions I am deeply impressed by how much the Brits were able to control at their peak!

The port of Georgetown is situated on the island of Penang and is connected to the mainland by the 3rd longest bridge in the world, the aptly named 2.5 km Penang Bridge. After tendering (that’s ship lingo for taking a smaller boat from ship to shore) to shore and exchanging for a few Ringgit I found myself on an SAS bus crossing Penang Bridge bound for Kuala Lumpur! I have come to the conclusion that our currency is incredibly boring with its same sized dull green bills whereas every other country I’ve been too has colorful currency which is larger if it is a greater denomination. I think the United States should immediately enact legislation to require that all paper currency be dipped in the stuff you make tie-dye T-shirts out of!

At the halfway point of our journey we stopped at a Chinese restaurant called the Resteran Kok Thai, where we were served rice crackers, soup, Chinese tea, huge prawns that smelt odd and didn’t taste much better, beef and rice stir-fry, assorted fruits, and finally a platter of duck. The food is served in a very spread out manner and often each new course comes as a surprise and after you have just eaten a heaping portion of the first dish brought to you.

Another hour after the restaurant we had cruised through miles of lush green countryside periodically interrupted by jagged limestone cliffs, clouds that seemed to have forgotten they belong in the sky, and the occasional mine.

Malaysia is worlds apart from India. Everything here is clean and modern while drivers make use of lanes and convey that some sense of order is observed on the roads. Our approach to Kuala Lumpur, the capital city, was spectacular. KL as it is affectionately called is an ultra modern city with the latest and greatest name brands from around the world, a monorail system, and sparkling skyscrapers. If Disney World were made into a functioning city, it would be KL. It is home to the 457 meter tall Petronas twin towers, which are the tallest twin buildings in the world and symbolize the relative prosperity enjoyed by Malaysia. The multitude of high rises is also punctuated by the KL tower, which is the 4th highest communications tower in the world.

We arrived at our hotel in the heart of KL called Meliá which was conveniently located across the street from an enormous 7 or so story tall shopping mall called Times Square. We were given 45 minutes to freshen up before we were taken to a restaurant for dinner called Beri Melayu, which served buffet style a huge selection of Malay, Indian, Chinese, and Thai food. It was excellent though I have determined that as far as deserts go, gelatinous multi-colored treats may be pleasant to look at but perhaps should ONLY be enjoyed with the eyes… After the meal there was a cultural show where dancers performed in Chinese, Malay, and Indian styles. It was quite entertaining and concluded by bringing audience members on stage to dance with the performers. Of course, since it involved involuntary dancing in front of a room full of 100 or so people they were drawn to my lack of dancing ability. I was one of the chosen ones to go up on stage and prove to people that I do in fact, define bad dancing. I actually ended up having quite a bit of fun as the dance was simple and my partner warm and friendly.

After the show we loaded back up on the buses and returned to the hotel with the evening free for individual pursuits. A fairly large group of us decided that an Asian karaoke bar should be the order of the evening and having seen a suitable venue called club Vegas a block from our hotel, headed there. Apparently it was a six star place and my sweet Wal-Mart sandals and shorts were only allowed in because we were recognized as Americans which have a reputation of being good patrons. However, the place was very expensive so we headed on a recommendation to the Times Square mall next door to see what might be open at 10pm on a Wednesday

The front part of the mall was completely empty and closed down. This created the odd experience of strolling through a huge atrium type area where one could see seven stories of closed shops. Eventually though we made our way to an area of the mall that had strong signs of life and we ended up before a Karaoke bar called New Way. Unfortunately this bar also proved to be too rich for our blood and we wound up at a huge bowling alley called the Ampang Superbowl. It was packed with locals who apparently come out in droves to bowl on Wednesday nights. Vicki, Sara, Heather, and I bowled on one lane that had some serious technical issues. Often it would knock down pins when setting them up, or just not set down 10, making for some awkward setups. We had a great time though and bowling, shoe rental, and sock purchase could be had for RM 18 which is less than $6 USD! We came back to the hotel shortly after midnight and a few of us went swimming at the hotel pool which was on a rooftop surrounded by skyscrapers.

Afterwards we took an elevator we had disabled earlier in the night by loading too many people onto it and headed to our rooms to bed. I found it interesting that they had Discovery Channel here and that the law breaking antics of little hobunk towns in the States were being recounted on FBI files in Malaysia. WWE wrestling also seems to be big in this part of the world as just as in India it gets very heavy media coverage. I was also delighted to discover that Malaysia has its own Deal or no Deal with a Malaysian Howie Mandel to boot!

Day 58 – This morning we boarded the bus for a tour of KL. Our first stop was the palace of the King of Malaysia who, like the British royalty, is more a figurehead than any sort of political power. Though he does have final authority on prisoners who have received the death penalty for drug trafficking offenses. The palace was similar to but much less elaborate than Buckingham palace in England but also featured stone faced guards stationed about the gates.

Next it was onto the Malaysian War Memorial park which honors those soldiers from Malaysia who gave their lives in WWI, WWII, and the Malaysian Emergency (an internal conflict against communists) in the 1950s. From there we rode up in the KL communications tower for a magnificent 360 degree view of KL and an excellent vantage point of the Petronas towers. I can still scarcely believe how massive and modern this city is. It has all the comforts of any western city including 7/11s, a Starbucks on every corner, an Outback Steakhouse, and even a Hard Rock Café! After the tower we had lunch at a place inside the central market which was excellent. Particularly some kind of orange juice which in my opinion was perhaps the most glorious tasting beverage I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing.

With a few hours of free time to spare before our next activity, Justin, Larissa, Sara, Vicki, and I decided to go to Times Square. I got my passport photos I’ll need for Cambodia next week and it was then that Justin told me about the roller coaster. This mall had a 3 story indoor amusement park called Cosmo’s World that featured an 800 meter long roller coaster that featured loops and barrel rolls, and all the hallmarks of a good time. The best part was that there was no wait for the ride, so Justin and I walked right on and had a thrilling ride through the mall.

The rest of the evening’s plan called for a 90 minute bus ride to a river that is known for its huge firefly population. Since KL was cloudy and threatening rain, and there was a chance for storms in the area of the river the majority of our SAS group balked on going and elected to stay in KL. Sara, Larissa, Vicki, Justin, Ryan, and I decided to join the other dozen or so optimistic adventurers to see if we would get lucky. It ended up being one of my favorite evenings thus far on SAS.

As we tried to leave KL we got caught in bad traffic and our driver attempted to take a shortcut through a side street. Somehow our bus got stuck between a car in the front left and another car in the back right. Our Chinese guide Eddie had the idea to have Justin, Ryan, and I being the only young males on the bus try and help him and a few people from the neighborhood who had gathered to look at the tour bus trapped on their street pick up the car and move it. Realizing what an incredible legend of manliness lifting and moving a car would create and allowing that machoism to cancel out our concerns that this might not be the best idea we lined up along the car counted 1…2…3!!! SNAP! The bolts of the right side of the BMWs bumper were now laying in the street and the bumper was now oddly protruding from the side of the car. The three of us promptly returned to the bus while the other men in the street looked on with amusement. One man though, who I suspect was the owner of the car did not seem too thrilled and exchanged some heated words with Eddie. Having failed to move the car, our driver decided the time had come to punch his way through and he proceeded to scrape the bus past the same car we had ripped the bumper off of. Our bus scratched along the poor fellow’s car the whole way out until we were finally clear and sped off leaving behind a very livid owner who I’m sure will now have a lifelong hatred of tour buses.

Along the way to the river we passed through an intense thunderstorm that had some of us thinking we made a mistake in coming. However the skies soon cleared and we found ourselves in a fishing village and ate at a restaurant literally on the banks of the river. They served us possibly the best meal I’ve yet had on SAS, and one that ranked pretty highly in my entire history of fine food consumption. Also because so many people did not show up we got huge helpings of food as the restaurant had made preparations to serve a much larger group! We had Chicken, Chinese Spinach, Prawns, Sweet and Sour fish, and Crab. The seafood was to die for as it had gone from water to stomach in less than a kilometer! The prawns were breaded and covered with some kind of pink sauce and were to die for; possibly one of the best things I have ever tasted! I could not stop eating them!

Our bellies full we were bussed about 10 minutes down the river to the firefly park. We were loaded onto battery powered river boats and glided along in near silence with thousands of fireflies flickering on and off in the trees on the riverbanks under a nearly full moon shrouded by clouds. There were so many fireflies it was as though the stars had fallen from the sky and simply come to rest on the branches of the trees lining the riverbank. It was absolutely spectacular and one of my favorite night activities on par with Bio Bay in Puerto Rico or the night game drives in South Africa.

By 11:00 pm we were back to the hotel and the 6 of us decided to head out on the city. We took the monorail to the Hard Rock Café, but found it ridiculously overpriced and walked in search of a more reasonable place to spend the evening. Along the way I was reminded that prostitution is in fact legal here and doing quite well. This created an ironic role reversal where now the girls in our group needed to protect the guys from being harassed! A few blocks past the Hard Rock we came across the Aloha bar which had a good sounding live band and a good atmosphere. We had a few drinks and danced to the largely American music selection. I thoroughly enjoyed watching the Asians and a big group of Brits belting out Offspring songs with us and for an evening we were all friends!

Before too long we were allowed into the VIP lounge area upstairs which overlooked the stage, bar, and dance floor. We enjoyed a few more drinks upstairs until one of the management of the place came up and told us to follow her downstairs to see “surprise surprise!” We were a little bit skeptical but decided to follow her and she led us to a hidden stairway to the side of the main bar that went to another club UNDERNEATH the main one that was a techno/rave club that was much more energetic, had GREAT music, and a much larger dance floor.

At about 2:15 am we decided to head back to the hotel and get some sleep. I ended up staying up to 3:30 am to get my classes for the fall semester figured out (thanks Erika!) It’s weird to think about going home and trying to return to normal life and I can’t believe we’re already down to our last 50 days…

Day 59 – Today I slept in late to recover from last night and bid farewell to KL at noon. I loved KL and vow to return someday. It took us awhile to drive back and along the way we hit heavy rain. The rain in Malaysia is intense and the clouds are so low that the countryside becomes bathed in fog. By the time I stepped off the tender and onto the ship it was already 2000 so I decided to spend a quiet evening relaxing on the ship. Hopefully tomorrow we will see the large Buddhist temple here as well as Penang Hill!

Day 60 – My first day in Georgetown brought Liz, Vicki, Sarah, Kait, and I to the services of a taxi driver named Hasan. We hired him for the day to show us around the island of Penang. We began with a trip to see a huge reclining Buddha at a Buddhist temple. It was also interesting to see burning incense everywhere inside the temple as well as about 25 statues of various Buddhist gods and deities with descriptions of what advantages a worshipper receives by praying to that God. There was also a monk who was providing holy water blessing but we unfortunately did not have time. Buddhism is a fascinating religion and one which seems very inviting from an outsider’s perspective.

After the Buddhist temple we went to a botanical garden which was quite beautiful and very tranquil. Along the way into the garden we encountered several Macaque monkeys that were running around the grounds. One of them charged at Larissa when she tried to take a close up picture of it eating.

Afterwards we headed to the Buddhist temple of 1000 steps. It is unfortunate because the first few hundred steps have been taken over and built over by shops. However the experience dealing with merchants in Malaysia is leagues tamer than was India. These merchants actually respect your decision not to buy after you refuse and are sometimes so soft spoken I had to strain to hear what they were saying. The last stretch to the top was traversed via an incline cable car. The view at the top was spectacular and there were several small statues of all of the animals of the Chinese zodiac. There was also a huge statue at the top that was several stories tall but it was partially obscured by scaffolding because they are currently building a multi-million USD protective shelter for the statue.

From there we headed to Penang Hill, which we unfortunately could not do because the tickets to go up were sold out for the next two hours and we didn’t feel like we had the time to spare. We decided to head out in search of lunch and a short while later it was pouring rain. We had lunch at a little Chinese restaurant which I quite enjoyed.

Our final stop was a the Chocolate Boutique, where we all bought authentic Malaysian chocolate and coffee. They even had a hot pepper chocolate which tasted like a mix between dark and white chocolate but it had a very spicy aftertaste.

Day 61 – My last morning in Malaysia was spent trying to recuperate from the eventful past few days and so I did not wake up until 1130. I had an Easter service visit to the Cheshire Home for the physically handicapped in the afternoon. Although I had a bit of trouble striking up conversation at first, by the end of our time I had befriended one of their residents. Though I was not able to get his name, I did get that he was 29, turning 30 last week and something about the fact that he had 3 girlfriends. When I told him that I had none and Kirsten and I asked if he could give me some advice he was all smiles. The Cheshire Home is the manifestation of an idea started in England to create facilities where physically handicapped citizens can be rehabilitated and taught to do something that can allow them to become productive members of society.

Afterwards we went to a mall to go to a grocery store and stock up on snacks as Malaysia carries many American brands of food. And thus ended my Malaysia trip!

Friday, March 21, 2008

India Pictures

A selection of my favorite pictures from India are now up!

Check them out!

India (Chennai, Agra, Delhi, Jaipur)

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Namaste India!!!

Day 49 – We’re in India! I have 15 minutes before my group leaves for Jaipur and I’m all set with my newly exchanged 1700 rupees which were conveniently exchanged aboard the ship this time around. It definitely makes me more away of the perception of wealthy Americans when I saw my $40 USD turn into 17 100 rupee notes! I am so excited to see this place!

India is indescribable. From the moment our bus left the port area the difference was evident. Buses and trucks sped wherever they wanted to go without regard to lanes or other traffic. Small cars skirted around them while multitudes of people on bikes, scooters, vespas, motorcycles, and auto rickshaws darting in and out of the traffic. Add in the people crossing the street like a human game of Frogger multiplied by thousands of miles of road and you have a small taste of the craziest street conditions I’ve ever seen! On our drive to Chennai’s airport we passed what we suspect was the world’s 2nd largest beach. It was the widest swath of sand I’ve ever seen that seemed to stretch on for miles along the road. There were several fishing boats and nets while structures that looked like cloth draped over a ribbing of wood dotted the beach. There were also wild goats EVERYWHERE! The weather was very muggy and grey and it is easy to feel how hot it must get here when the sun comes out.

We were quite concerned to find that our buses were mosquito infested! As soon as we entered and sat down they seemed to come out of the cushions and curtains and begin their assault. So it begins I suppose…

We finally got to the airport about 45 minutes later and were bused to our Airbus A-320 for our flight to Delhi. It was the most uncomfortable flight I’ve had in recent memory! The seats did not relcine at all. No not just that they didn’t really move… We’re talking a plaque on each seat which read “Non-reclining seat” On top of that the seats were jammed so close together that I literally had my knees wedged between my seat and the one in front of me! There was also no video equipment and ALL meals and beverages (including water) needed to be purchased. Not that I like to complain but I can’t have this trip sounding like it’s all paradise!

After a little over 2 hours our bumpy ride terminated in Delhi where there were buses waiting to take us to the Hotel Ashok. For this hotel I give SAS high praise as it is a fantastic world-class 5 star hotel! Some people even lucked out enough to have a suit, though I was not one of the lucky ones and instead shared a queen bed with another guy my size… We had a fantastic dinner with all kinds of assorted authentic Indian cuisine. I tried a little bit of everything so this will be the first true test of my stomach! There was a fantastic dessert called Gulas Jamon, which resembles a doughnut hole and tastes like one that has been soaked in honey and sugar.

Afterwards Mandy, Taryn, and I saw another group of SAS people arrive including my extended family “parents” Jono and Lisa and also Kait, both Saras, and Jackie! By my approximation there are just shy of 300 SASers in this hotel tonight. Talk about group rates! They will be giving us a wakeup call at 0400 tomorrow so that we will all be aboard the buses to depart at 0515 to go to Agra and the Taj Mahal! Tomorrow night we will be staying at a hotel in Jaipur. As I sit here in my hotel room watching BBC I finally am starting to truly feel like a world citizen as I actually know the places, people, and issues that are in the news on the world stage now. I am definitely smitten by the travel bug.

Day 50 – India is unlike anyplace I’ve ever been. It has not been anything like I’ve ever seen in the movies and it is a confusing and overwhelming place to try to describe to one who has not personally experienced it. This morning we awoke very early and boarded buses to a train station. When we arrived at the station we stepped off the buses into what can only be described as utter chaos. There were hundreds of people riding bicycles, walking, laying under blankets in the dirt and on the floor of the station while frantic honking filled the air from the stream of buses, cars, and rickshaws that only half seemed concerned about hitting you on their way through.

The train brought us to the city of Agra, where we happened to run into Kate and her indy group. Only on SAS would you randomly run into someone you know in a train station in North India. Our purpose in Agra was to see the Taj Mahal and after a quick stop at another nice hotel for breakfast we headed out. Agra and India itself is a land of constant clash and sharp contrast. It is not unusual to see a new looking car skirt around a corner crowded with people, goats, stray dogs, new motorcycles, cattle, camels, and a sign advertising 10 mbps broadband internet. Houses range from tin shacks and cloth tents to upscale town homes and privately fenced retreats.

The walk from the drop off point to the actual Taj consisted of a journey down a tree lined dirt road amidst swarms of vendors who attempted to persuade you that they are giving you an amazing unbeatable deal on a snowglobe, a box of elephants (15 for 100 rupees!) a pack of postcards, or in one odd case a whip. Making eye contact or saying no thank you is a mistake and immediately results in the vender stepping up his or her efforts. Most even offer their wares for something you’re wearing. Even my wristbands would easily have gone for a small statuette of the Taj.

At last we came through a great gate and before us the pale white marble spires of the Taj Mahal came into view! The Taj is absolutely incredible to behold with its grandeur accentuated by the hand made carvings and inlays of semiprecious stones in its walls. The Taj was built by an emperor as a show of love and took 22 years in the 1600’s to complete. The marble had to be moved brick by brick from farther away places before being constructed using a type of superglue made from a recepie passed down the generations of families by only their male members. It seemed to surreal to actually be standing in front of such an incredible monument that had stood for so many hundreds of years!

After the Taj we went back to the hotel for lunch and then made our way to Agra fort. The imposing walls of this old brown fort also served as a prison for the emperor who built the Taj in the 17th century when he was overthrown and imprisoned by his power hungry son. As a last cruelty the Taj Mahal is clearly visible from the cell.

After the fort our bus began the long (6 hour) journey to the pink sandstone city of Jaipur. Along the way we stopped at another old building or rather collection of buildings known as the Ghost City. It was a place that onces served as the emperor’s capital until he fell from power and it was abandoned to the ages.

While leaving the city me and two other girls were walking along the road a bit behind our group when we were swarmed by children. One of the girls took out her camera and the kids went insane trying to get her to take their photo. After a few photos they would not leave us alone. They really wanted my hat and wristbands but I was afraid of what might happen if I only gave things to a few of them. Though quite impeded we made it back to our bus only a few minutes behind the rest of our group.

I also had an odd experience before we left the city where a well dressed man approached me and told me he was also a student who was studying the Koran and wanted to practice his English by showing me another area of the fort that was suspiciously on the other side of the fort from our group and out of sight. Fortunately, I remained suspicious and returned to the group where later I found out that he had given the same story to a few other people and our guide explained that they were up to no good and likely would have expected to be paid for their “tour” at the least and robbed me at the worst. Such is the nature of India I suppose.

Back on the bus and nearly 2 hours into the drive, we came upon an oasis in the form of a weigh station that sold American snacks. So I wound up with Oreos and Pringles! 4 hours later we finally arrived at the hotel for another fantastic dinner! Afterwards I went up to the 7th floor where about 10 of us had a beer (Kingfisher – an Indian beer) on top floor open air bar! India is always foggy and smokey so the view was somewhat dampened but it was still a great atmosphere! In the morning we will arise decently early at 0545, in order to head to a fort where we will be riding elephants at 0700!

Day 51 – This morning we headed out early to a nearby fort where there are elephant rides up a winding path through the fortifications of the palace winding up the mountain. Apparently the place has 90 elephants of which each can make 10 trips up the mountain with 2 riders each time. Fortunately our group was among the first 1800 and after about an hour wait where Mandy and I met some other Americans in line we were riding an elephant up a mountain in India! The view from the top was spectacular as there is a second mountain with a wall winding up the side and the two mountains frame a small valley town that was shrouded in the early morning fog. The only annoyance was that our elephant driver would not stop hounding us for a tip after the ride even though our guide had already tipped for all of our group. Needless to say he was not happy that I was ignoring him and he gave me the evil eye as he roade his elephant out of the square where he dropped us off.

The fort was quite impressive and provided excellent views of the valley Ater leaving the fort we went to the palace of the Maharaja. All of the old buildings here are so impressive and the walls and construction seems to hold so many stories. After that we went to a textile factory where they taught us how Indian carpets are made. The highest quality carpets feature 475 knots per square inch!

Next up was a market which was an incredibly memorable experience. Crossing the street felt like a rite of passage as the traffic does not slow down in order for you to cross, they simply honk to inform you they will be driving through and that you had best move or you will be run down.

As I had already bought marble souvenirs in Agra, I did not feel like buying anything else and so headed back to the bus with Grant, Mike, Lowe, and Rachel. The bus was parked across the street from a large park where several groups of young Indians were playing cricket. The five of us walked over to the fence surrounding the park and immediately drew attention. Grant managed to get a few swings in with the cricket bat but they threw the ball at his head ending the game… The two girls were immediately surrounded and started getting harassed so I escorted them out of the park and they went back to the bus.

I went back out a few minutes later and Mike and I talked (or tried to talk) with a huge group of the adolescent Indians. It was an interesting experience as some of them were very friendly and in broken English expressed great interest in us being from the States. While others were saying things to us and about us that we could not understand but that they were all laughing about. This gave me the distinct impression that they were mocking us. They also wanted me to wear Mike’s sunglasses as apparently they thought I looked like the WWE wrestler The Big Show as they kept calling me that and trying to get me to take off my shirt!

Eventually one of them had me hop on his bike and we rode up and down the block to the cheers (or jeers?) I have to admit I had a moment of panic where I wondered if I would be coming back from this bike ride, but my driver kept asking if I wanted to turn around and did so when I asked. Before too long we made our way back to the bus where another small boy told us that we had been hanging out with the “naughty children” who apparently were Muslims.

Finally, I wound up back on the bus wondering what had just happened; whether I had been appreciated or ridiculed and how these children would tell the story of the Americans at the park.

From there we headed to some kind of hotel/really fancy house, that was hidden behind some rundown looking shops. It was absolutely gorgeous with Arabian styled architecture, a beautiful pool, and a man and small boy playing traditional Indian music in the clear moonlit night. The food, as has been my experience in India, was again excellent. After dinner we headed back to our hotel with the knowledge that we would be waking up at 0130 to leave at 0200 for our bus ride back to Delhi. As it was so late already, Mandy, Vanessa, Ashley, Vicki, Larissa, and I just relaxed and watched Derailed, which happened to be on in English.

Day 52 – This morning we packed into buses at 0200 and began our 5 ½ hour journey back to Delhi. Due to an unfortunate scheduling mishap we had to cancel our day sightseeing Delhi and instead will be taking a morning flight back to Chennai and the ship. We will be getting back 12 hours earlier than our original itinerary. One day I shall have to return and actually see Delhi as I’m sure it is equally as fascinating as Agra and Jaipur. At about 0500 the buses stopped at a restroom station where it was quite amusing to see dozens of bleary eyed college students stumble off the buses and form a large line that silently filtered through the restrooms.

At around 2030 we finally arrived at the airport rushed through security to catch our 2115 plane which was unfortunately again on the same uncomfortable budget airline we had on the way out. Luckily I was exhausted enough that it passed fairly quickly. By the time we made it back to the ship it was already 1400 in the afternoon. I still find it quite difficult to convey what this experience has been like, but the afternoon was spent reuniting with our shipmates and trying to share our stories and experiences. We are all bound together by an experience that was shared yet received differently by each of us. Being so wiped out and overwhelmed by the experience of the past few days and the hour growing late I elected to stay on the ship and relax for the evening.

Day 53 – For our last day in India we decided to stay in Chennai and check out the markets and a large mall called Spencer’s. So Robyn, Kate, and another Kate, and I took a rickshaw to the mall called Spencer’s. A rickshaw ride in India is an experience in and of itself. I thought the time I spent riding around in a bus in traffic was intense but the rickshaw experience made the bus ride seem like a Sunday drive. In the rickshaw you intimately experience the bumpers and tailpipes of the traffic around you and you witness first hand just how close these drivers come to colliding with each other in the chaos that is driving in India. A few minutes and a lot of adrenaline later, we were dropped at an open air market. It was another intense experience. Aside from the usual constant pressure from the peddlers, there was a little girl that couldn’t have been more than 4 who took me by the pinky while she begged me for money and then pointed longingly at a rack of fruit as we passed by. The thing that makes it so difficult is that as much as I want to help I know that at that moment there are dozens of other sets of eyes watching to see if I bring out money at which point they would aggressively pursue us for still more money. Also many times the child does not benefit from them or else has them trained to bring the money to them. I wish there was something more I could do.

After we finished with the market we went to Spencer’s a western style shopping mall. We shipped around for a while before a very confusing thing occurred. We were on the 1st floor of the shopping mall when suddenly a few shop keepers came running and shouting down the hallway outside. In seconds all of the shopkeepers sprang into action shooing customers out of their stores, stashing away all their outside merchandise and quickly slamming shut the steel garage door-like gates to protect their shops. The security guards depicted an air of heightened alert. The owner of the shop we were in told us there was a problem upstairs and that we should leave.

From overhearing a few of the other shopkeepers and a security guard we ascertained that apparently two shopkeepers had some kind of disagreement on the second floor that was apparently serious enough to close the whole mall to essentially close down.

Afterwards we caught another rickshaw back to the ship to meet Kait and have lunch. After reenergizing Kait, Kyle, and Megan joined us and we went to a place called City Center with the hopes of catching a Bollywood movie. Unfortunately we arrived at a bad time and the movie we wanted to see was sold out and the only other movie showing at the time was in Tamil and had no subtitles. We then elected to call Spencer’s and see if whatever issue that had occurred had blown over. They reported that it was fine to come back. I’m still not sure exactly what happened at Spencer’s. The SAS rumor mill began turning about it immediately after returning to the ship, and I’ve heard that it was either a gang battle, a gun standoff, or a child beating that was forcibly stopped. The rickshaw driver thought it was a fire while his colleague seemed to think it had been a bomb.

At the mall we were assured by the staff that it was safe to return and that everything inside the mall was back to business as usual. I still can’t get used to the fact that it is possible to barter in the mall. After I made a few productive purchases and after a few hours, Kyle and I made our way to our established meeting point with the girls. We waited half an hour past the time we had agreed to meet before making the realization that we were waiting at the wrong entrance! Luckily the girls had gotten tired of waiting for us and had just gotten something to eat to pass the time. So Kyle and I did the same (though I must admit we buckled and went to a non-Indian restaurant) and before long found ourselves on the last rickshaw home. So that was India

Back to the High Seas

Day 43 – Today was quite a bizarre day. I awoke at the usual time of 0720 but was not motivated enough to go get breakfast and stumbled to class. In a daze I struggled through one of Professor Hunt’s always interesting warfare classes. He must’ve picked up on the fact that most of us were seasick exhausted excuses for students as he let class out 15 minutes early.

Global today was also only half length and attended by a skeleton audience. I think the fact that the two professors usually responsible for running Global Studies are temporarily off the ship may have had something to do with it. The great thing is that for the next week all of my A days will start at 0920 meaning I get to sleep an extra 80 minutes!

After Global I took some Dramamine as I was finally having my first bout with seasickness. Unfortunately it was drowsy and induced me into a dream-like state where most of what went on in my World Lit class went right through my skull and out the other side. Luckily that class ended early too so I took advantage and had a glorious 2 ½ hour nap that FINALLY rejuvenated me a bit. I spent the rest of the evening with Robyn, Kate, and Kait and we planned our final set of trips for this voyage!

I can’t believe we’ve already been on this trip for 6 weeks and I am already sad how fast it is going… Though I am really starting to miss friends and family and the comforts of home, I also know that going back will be quite an adjustment and I think I will go through cabin fever having to stay in one place for so much time. This experience has definitely hooked me on traveling though and there are now so many places I not only want to see but feel I will someday.

Day 44 – Today I enjoyed the extra hour and a half of sleep granted by the absence of professor Good and awoke to an excellent play in Global Studies about India’s problem with killing and aborting female infants and fetuses written by Kate. India today has a severe shortage of women because of the strong preference for male children.

On a lighter note, today was finally a nice day so I got some sun with Robyn. It was another one of those days where not much seemed to happen but the day went fast anyway. Although we did get a wonderful surprise of today being Taco Day. Taco Day is the rare occasion where the food is something to look forward to and cherish eating. I had always heard about Taco Day but I never realized it would become the legendary holiday it now is. I also enjoyed watching Life as a House with Kate.

Day 45 – Today was another usual day at sea. I’ve managed to start stashing the grape jelly packets they have at breakfast in an attempt to improve the quality of PB & J toast that all too often is the only appealing food at mealtime. Yellow Sea had our chant practice this evening in preparation for the Olympics tomorrow. It should be a lot of fun! I will be representing Yellow in Tug O’ War and Ping pong so hopefully I’ll do well!

Day 46 – Today was the Sea Olympics! The chant we worked on last night was good for 2nd place in the opening ceremonies. We also got a bronze medal for our Tug O’ War efforts losing only to the eventual champion Caribbean Sea. Unfortunately though my Ping Pong skills leave much to be desired and my partner Kelsey and I were eliminated in the first round. Overall though it was a great day after everyone had a full day of activities including Flip Cup, Slippery Twister, Synchronized Swimming, Water Relay (People put on wet clothes swim across the pool and take the clothes off for the next person in the relay), Scavenger Hunt, Photo Finish, Potato Sculpting, and a few other events. The evening ended with a hilarious lip syncing competition and at the end of the night Yellow was 3rd place out of 10. Not too shabby!

Day 47 – Its officially winter again! Yesterday we crossed the equator back into the Northern Hemisphere. But its definitely not time to put on the jackets as rumor is India will be in the low 100s. I don’t quite buy that but I think low 80s is a definite possibility. Today was also interesting because I had a family dinner with my extended family and my “Uncle” Dan pointed out that this year we will experience 367 days in 2008 s we had a leap year, and will cross the international dateline in one direction. I wonder how many people can say that!? Tonight was also the crowning of Mr. SAS and our winner, the ever quotable Chinese student Chi was well deserving of his victory. He had a hilarious moment in the Q & A section where he said he has a girlfriend at home but its not a big deal at all and he LOVES American girls! Funny stuff…

Day 48 – Today we had our India logistical preport and I am brimming with excitement about this intriguing country. I still can’t fathom that tomorrow we will actually be in this country. I think it will be a life changing experience and I can’t wait! Someone on the ship asked if I’d seen 3rd world before and after I replied no they said I’m in for a trip!

Paradise is a Little Place Called Mauritius

Day 38 – Spring Break!!! After my Global Studies exam this morning and our pending arrival in Mauritius tomorrow morning I can let my mind and body relax for a while and enjoy our villa and the warm Mauritian sun for the week! It should be a great time and I’m looking forward to getting a villa with Robyn, Kate, Kait, Grant, Kyle, Collin, and Aaron.

Day 39, 40, 41, and 42 – Mauritius was a very lush tropical island nation that reminded me very much of Hawaii even down to the presence of Mina birds which I had thought occurred only in Hawaii. Mauritius is an interesting blend of French, British, Creole, and Indian culture.

On the first day I went on an orientation of the city of Port Luis where we saw cathedrals, pasodas, mosques, Hindu temples, colonial buildings and the Champ de Mars, a horse racing track that is the oldest in the Southern hemisphere and was originally used for French military drill. The island boasts jagged green mountains accented by the 2661 foot tall peak of Le Pouce. Le Pouce looks as though it is ready to topple over at any second but has somehow managed to remain standing over the years. We also went to the Pamplemousses Garden where we stopped at the Sir Seewoo Sagur Ramgoolam botanical gardens and saw a huge array of different plants like water lilies and a spice garden. We also saw the Aldabras Giant Tortoise, which is one of the world’s largest (roughly the size of a small end table). Though because it was the heat of the day they were all sleeping and the most thrilling thing that happened was one shifted a leg.

Afterwards Kate, Kait, Robyn, Kirsten, Sara, and I spend the rest of the day exploring Port Luis and found a place called the Sunset Café that had absolutely amazing ice cream!

That night I made my way down to the west coast of the island to a place called Flic En Flac which is largely a tourist dominated region populated by villas and small hotels. Also stray dogs… lots of stray dogs… I stayed at Meghan and Kayleigh’s villa and a big group of us hung out and did what college students do late into the night.

The next day I stayed at a villa that was part of the Klondike hotel which was absolutely gorgeous! We had free glass bottom boat and snorkeling rides, an open air dining room that served us buffet style breakfast and dinner, and an infinity pool overlooking a beach with scattered lava rocks. Our villa had 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms with a living area with two more beds and a kitchen. It was just enough space for the 8 of us.

For lunch, Kyle, Grant, Aaron and I found a hole in the wall restaurant where I had some excellent Creole style fried rice. We then headed to a supermarket to stock up for the evening’s festivities. We had a great time at our villa and went through a considerable amount of Phoenix (The Mauritian national beer). We also got some snorkeling and of course sun bathing in during the day. On the first night at our villa we also went out to a bar called Shooters which was populated entirely by SASers. I even managed to bring myself to dance with a few people so I made some serious improvements of my dance skillz ;)

The people I met in Mauritius were extremely friendly. I met a originally from Mauritius, but now living in France. She said never in all her travels around the world had she ever seen a bunch of youths with laptops as we were doing in Port Luis on our last day when someone discovered free internet there. We also talked a bit about politics around the world including the upcoming elections in South Africa and also talked about globalization. She was also very flattering to me and said I was handsome and that if I were a bit older that she would’ve wanted me to meet her daughter. This remark was very unexpected but I enjoyed the compliment.

A few hours and one last ice cream at Sunset Café later we were back on the ship getting set to sail to India!

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Here come the pictures!!!

FINALLY GOT SOME PICTURES UP!!! Apparently 4 in the morning is the golden hour of internet!

Check them out! Sorry about the low quality...

Best of South Africa

Look for an India blog soon and hopefully some more photos!